The Shetland Islands, through now part of the British Commonwealth, belonged to Norway until 1469, and the Scandinavian influence is still seen in the local customs and architecture. The most spectacular example of the Viking heritage of this area is displayed each year on the last Tuesday in January, with Up-Helly-Aa.
This festival commemorates the end of mid-winter celebrations with a torchlight procession through the main town of Lerwick. Over 800 men called guizers, dressed as Vikings and led by the Guizer Jarl, march through the streets to the town center, where they set ablaze a full sized replica of a Viking longboat. As the huge boat burns, the revelers drink and sing songs until dawn. In earlier times, the townsfolk would open their homes to the revelers and serve them food and drink throughout the night. Now there are modern halls open to the public until dawn for feasting, music and dancing.
The town prepares months ahead for this festive night, and a permanent exhibit of the history of Up-Helly-Aa is displayed at the Galley Shed on St. Sunniva Street. Depending on whose story you read, Up-Helly-Aa is either a continuation of an ancient tradition or a modern celebration with an ancient influence, but either way you'll be hard pressed to find a more authentic pagan feeling in any other winter celebration around the world.
Here in the Pacific Northwest we also have a great Scandinavian heritage, right down to our own Viking fire festival in Poulsbo. Each year, this Norwegian enclave hosts its own torchlight celebration. The Sons of Norway, a local Norwegian heritage group, dons Viking garb, right down to the horned helmets. Weather permitting, they row a Viking longboat, bearing a young girl who is dressed in the traditional Lucia costume of a white dress and a crown of candles, to a dock in the town center. There is then a procession from the ship to a huge pile of wood, which is set afire by the Vikings with their torches. Hot spiced cider is offered and depending on whether or not it's pouring, attendees gather around the fire singing Christmas carols until late in the evening.
You can also share in the holiday spirit at one of the bonfires lit by Argosy Cruises for their Christmas Ship tours. Argosy takes passengers on evening cruises around Lake Washington and Lake Union with several stops along the way for carol singing in front of a roaring fire. If you'd like the full cruise experience, it's $25 per adult and $15 per child, but the bonfires are open to the public, so you can just join in if you like.
Some of the scheduled stops include: Sheridan Beach on Wednesday December 17 from 8:30 to 9:00 p.m., Magnuson Park on Thursday December 18th from 8:05 to 8:35 p.m., Medina on Friday December 19th from 8:05 to 8:35 p.m., Meydenbauer Beach Park in Bellevue on Saturday December 20th from 8:30 to 9:00 p.m. and Gas Works Park on Tuesday December 23rd from 8:00 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.
Happy holidays to all, and happy traveling!
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