Beltaine is the high point of the spring fertility celebration, recognized in many traditions as the night on which the Goddess couples with and/or marries the God. Young European women seeking to become pregnant held the night of April 30th as the most opportune time for fertility magic, and at the May Eve bonfires, many couples would sneak away for private rituals of their own. Some of the most famous celebrations are still held in the Eastern Harz Mountains of Germany.
Beginning approximately 50 miles southeast of Hanover, the Harz Mountains straddle the area formerly divided into East Germany and West Germany. Due to the remote locations of these towns, much of the area has remained untouched by the political strife which has affected the rest of the country. The last week in April is set aside for celebrations including music, Maypole dancing, bonfires and fireworks. Christian clergy in the 1600s tried to play down the heathen reputation of the holiday by renaming the night Walpurgisnacht after St. Walpurga, a German nun, but the true origins of the holiday can still be seen in the Harzhexen, little felt witches perched on straw brooms which are sold as souvenirs.
It is said that secret rites are still held on the Brocken, the tallest peak of the Harz which was immortalized in Johann Wolfgang von Goethe's epic retelling of Faust. In his story, Goethe places the Brocken as the fairground of the witches who dance on May Eve until the midnight arrival of the May King.
The mountain is crossed by the Brockenbahn, a railway starting from the hamlet of Torfhaus. More public celebrations are held 15 miles further east at a mountain plateau called the Hexentanzplatz, or Witches Dancing Square, which is only accessible by chair lift from the tiny village of Thale. Festivities are also held in Wernigerode, a fairy tale mountain village complete with a stone castle on a hillside and the looming presence of the Brocken seen to the west.
We here in the Pacific Northwest are fortunate to have our own German village in the mountains at Leavenworth, located on Route 2 east of Stevens Pass. Here you can take part in Maifest 97, held from May 9th to May 11th. While perhaps not as wild as their German counterparts, the celebrations here include music, beer and wine tasting and, of course, the traditional Maypole dances on Saturday and Sunday afternoon. The mysteries of the mountain forests can be felt here as well with hiking trails located not far from town. Trek the mountain paths on May Eve and who knows? You may stumble across a witches' ball or the wedding ceremonies of Odin and Freya.
For those who wish to see the wonders of the Harz Mountains online, there are photo sites located at www.web-resorts.com/Harz-English/O-Brocken.htm.
One of the photos of the Brocken here includes the "traditional witch," cartoon witch superimposed over the picture. Excellent travel ideas are also available at the Lonely Planet web sites (my personal favorites) at www.lonelyplanet.com/dest/eur. Information about Leavenworth, Washington can be obtained through their site at www.leavenworth.org, which includes great photos of events and activities offered here throughout the year.
Happy traveling!
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